Allspice is the ironically named spice. Though notin theAlanis Morissette sense of the word "ironic", which she uses as asynonym for "quite annoying", which is, ironically, quite annoying. No, the irony of allspice is that it really is incredibly useful and versatile, with the qualities of acomplex assembly of other spices, with notes of bay, citrus, mace, clove, cinnamon, black pepper… andyet we hardly ever use it.
Well, if you've got some lingering in the cupboard, get it out now (or get some in), for few flavourings segue so easily between sweet and savoury, and make such an intriguing, complex contribution. Used alone or in ablend, allspice can do great things.
Also known as Jamaica pepper (and also pimento), allspice brings with it a true breath of the West Indies – it's the backbone of jerk seasoning, the defining touch in rice and peas, and even used to flavour a fiery, rum-based liqueur called pimento dram. It is also found in many Latin American and Middle Eastern dishes, as well as in the cupboards of cake- and biscuit-bakers the world over.
Allspice is not to be confused with proprietary blends labelled "mixed spice" – those are generally designed for sweet baking. Rarely is allspice part of the blend, perhaps because of its intense pepperiness, yet that heat can be very welcome in a sweet batter or dough, just as ginger can (see the sumptuous cake recipe).
I love the look and feel of allspice's fat, round, brown berries. They vary in size – some as small as a coriander seed, some aslarge as a pea – but allare easily crushed to release the multi-layered flavour. Just broken open like this, then captured in alittle square of muslin, they are wonderful simmered in a chutney, soup or curry, or even in the fruit cooking for a marmalade or jam. Thecrushed berries can also be added to marinades. Alternatively, grind them to a fine powder, which is ideal if you want just apinch for arice dish or biscuit dough.
While writing this, I nipped to the larder to crack a couple of berries and inspire myself with that heady aroma, but I've used so much of late that I've run out. Ironic, wouldn't you say? Or at least quite annoying.
Sardine escabeche with allspice
An escabeche is a dish of richly spiced, lightly pickled fish, and it's delicious made with oily fish. If you can't get sardines, small, whole mackerel or large mackerel fillets are an excellent alternative. Serves six.
12 large sardines, descaled andgutted
Olive oil
For the dry spice mix
1 tbsp allspice berries
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
Black pepper
1 rounded tsp fine salt
1 rounded tsp sugar
For the marinade
A few allspice berries
1 pinch dried chilli flakes
1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finelysliced
2 bay leaves
125ml white wine
75ml cider vinegar
In a heavy frying pan over medium heat, lightly toast the allspice, cumin and coriander, tossing often, until fragrant. Tip on to a plate to cool. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar, add the pepper, salt and sugar, and grind to a coarse powder.
Rinse the sardines and pat dry with kitchen paper. Put the spice mix on a plate and dust the fish in it, making sure they're evenly covered; shake off the excess. Put the pan back on a medium heat and add a tablespoon of oil. Fry the fish in batches, adding oil as necessary, for three to four minutes, until coloured all over, then transfer the fish to a deep dish. Add alittle more oil to the pan. Roughly crush the allspice berries for the marinade and add to the pan with the chilli, onion, garlic and bay. Cook for a few minutes until the onion is soft, pour in the wine and vinegar, and simmer for three to four minutes. Tip the hot marinade over the fish – they should be completely covered – leave to cool, then chill for at least six hours and up to two days. Escabeche is best served at room temperature, so take it out of the fridge a few hours beforehand. Serve with flatbreads, pittas or toasted sourdough and a simple salad.
Jerk chicken
This classic West Indian dish is a real winner. You can also use the paste asa seasoning for pork, fish and even vegetables such as aubergines. It will keep for two weeks if covered and refrigerated. These quantities make about 250g paste.
1 chicken, jointed (or about 1.5kg on-the-bone chicken pieces)
1 small handful coriander leaves and some lime wedges, to serve
For the jerk seasoning
4 tbsp allspice berries
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp black peppercorns
2 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground nutmeg
¼ tsp ground cloves
6 garlic cloves, peeled
4 spring onions, white and pale green part only, chopped
1 small bunch coriander, tough stalks removed
4 Scotch bonnet chillies, cored anddeseeded
1 small thumb fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 tbsp light muscovado sugar
3 tbsp vegetable oil
For the rice and peas
200g basmati rice
410g tin kidney beans
400g tin coconut milk
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed andchopped
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1 tsp ground allspice
In a spice mill or mortar, grind the allspice, coriander and peppercorns until fine. Tip into a blender or food processor with the other jerk ingredients and blend to asmooth paste. Turn the chicken pieces in thepaste so they're well coated, cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove from the fridge 30 minutes before cooking.
Soak the rice in cold water for 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Line a roasting tin with baking parchment and lightly brush the paper with vegetable oil. Lay in the chicken in a single layer and roast for half an hour, turning occasionally, so it browns all over.
Meanwhile, drain the rice and rinse until the water runs clear. Tip into ameasuring jug, make a note of the level, then tip into a bowl. Drain the liquid from the kidney beans into the jug and add the coconut milk: the liquid needs to be one and a half times the volume of the rice, so pour some away or add water, as necessary. Pour into a pan and bring to a boil. Add the rice, spring onion, thyme, garlic, allspice and a good pinch of salt, and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add the beans and simmer, covered, for five minutes, until the rice is done. Drain, and serve hot with the chicken. Garnish with the coriander and lime.
Orange, ginger and allspice cake
A wonderful winter tea-time treat, packed with warm, spicy, aromatic flavours. Or serve it still warm from the oven, with cream, asa pud. Makes one 23cm cake.
180g self-raising flour
2 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp ground allspice
180g butter, softened, plus extra forgreasing
180g caster sugar
3 eggs
60g stem ginger, chopped
Juice of 1 orange
Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
For the syrup
Juice of 1 orange
Juice of ½ lemon
3 tbsp syrup from the ginger jar
1 pinch ground allspice
2 tbsp demerara sugar
Grease a 23cm-diameter loose-bottomed cake tin, line with baking parchment and butter the parchment. Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Sift the flour, ginger, baking powder and allspice into a bowl. In astand mixer or with a hand-held mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. (If it looks as if it's going to curdle, add a tablespoon of flour with the last egg.) Gently fold in the rest of the flour, then stir in the stem ginger, orange juice and orange zest.
Spoon into the tin, smooth the top and bake for 25-30 minutes, until risen and golden, and a skewer comes out clean.
While the cake is baking, make the syrup. In a small pan, combine the orange juice, lemon juice, gingersyrup and pinch of allspice. Warm through and let it steam gently for five minutes. When you take the cake out of the oven, prick it all over with a skewer and trickle the syrup over the top. Sprinkle with the demerara sugar, leave to cool in the tin for about 20 minutes, then remove and leave on a rack to cool completely.
